Creative Use of Depth of Field: Blurry Backgrounds, Sharp Subjects
What if I told you that mastering a fundamental concept in photography could transform your photos, allowing you to guide the viewer's eye, create drama, and truly make your subjects sing? It's not about complex post-processing or expensive gear; it's about harnessing a core photographic principle. Today, we're unlocking the secrets of Depth of Field, showing you how to achieve those stunning blurry backgrounds or razor-sharp landscapes you've always admired.
Ever seen a portrait where the person just jumps out, with a beautiful, creamy, blurred background? Or a landscape photo where every detail, from the flower in front to the mountain miles away, is perfectly sharp? That, my dear listener, is the magic of Depth of Field, or DoF if you like short names, which I generally don't.
Depth of Field is simply how much of your photo appears acceptably sharp, both in front of and behind your main subject. It's one of your most powerful creative tools, allowing you to guide the viewer's eye, create drama, or tell a story. It's all about playing with focus – choosing not just what is sharp, but how much is sharp around it.
When we talk about controlling depth of field, we're mostly talking about aperture. That's the opening in your lens. But it's not just aperture. Oh no. It's also about how close you are to your subject and your lens's focal length. Get these three things working together, and you'll be creating stunning, professional-looking photos that truly stand out. Stop just snapping, and start crafting with purpose!
And I need to get this out of the way – depth of field is the term we use, but I use the term depth of sharpness, because that is what it is. There, I have got that out of the way – now I can behave and get on with this episode.
Hello and welcome to the Photography Explained Podcast!
And a very good morning, good afternoon, or good evening to you, wherever you are in the world. I'm your host, Rick, and in each episode, I try to explain one photographic thing to you in plain English in less than 27 minutes (ish), without the irrelevant details. Yes, really.
This is Photography Explained Podcast - Episode 212: Creative Use of Depth of Field: Blurry Backgrounds, Sharp Subjects
I'm a professionally qualified photographer based in England with a lifetime of photographic experience, which I share with you in my splendid podcast.
Today, we're diving into one of photography's most visually impactful creative controls: Depth of Field. Or depth of sharpness. Stop it Rick.
We'll explore how you can use it to make subjects pop from a dreamy, blurred background, or ensure every detail in your epic landscape is razor-sharp. This is practical stuff that you can do to get the shots you want, every time.
How utterly splendid. Let’s get into this.
Here are 5 top tips for Mastering Creative Depth of Field!
Okay. These things will simplify how you think about sharp and blurry bits in your photos and help you achieve professional results.
1: Aperture's Power: Your Blur Control Dial!
First things first, the biggest player in the depth of field game is your aperture. That's the opening in your lens, controlled by those funny f-numbers like f/1.8, f/5.6, or f/16.
Small f-number = Wide Aperture = Shallow Depth of Field.
Think of f/1.8, f/2.8, f/4. These wide openings let in lots of light. Crucially, they create a very shallow depth of field. This means only a narrow sliver of your photo will be sharp; everything in front or behind will be beautifully blurred. This is your go-to for that creamy, dreamy background effect, often called "bokeh" – which sounds like a Japanese flower arrangement but just means the quality of background blur.
Large f-number = Narrow Aperture = Deep Depth of Field.
Think of f/8, f/11, f/16, or even f/22. These narrow openings let in less light, but give you a deep depth of field. This means a much larger portion of your scene, from near to far, will appear sharp. Ideal for landscapes where you want everything from the rocks at your feet to the clouds in the sky to be in focus.
The aperture is your magic dial for controlling how much blur you get. Want more blur? Choose a smaller f-number. Want less blur? Choose a larger f-number. Simple. Ish.
2: Blurry Backgrounds: Make Your Subject Pop!
This is probably the most popular creative use of depth of field, and for good reason. A beautifully blurred background (that lovely bokeh we just mentioned) helps isolate your subject and make them stand out from distractions.
Portraits: The classic example. You want the person's face (especially their eyes!) to be tack sharp, but you don't want that messy bin in the background. A wide aperture like f/1.8 or f/2.8 will beautifully melt away the background, making your subject truly pop. It makes the viewer focus exactly where you want them to. But be careful at these apertures, you have to focus on the actual eyes, get the nose, and the eyes might not be sharp. So, to give yourself a bit of latitude, you might want to stop down a bit to say f/4. This is why practice is so important. Find out what works for you.
Product Photography: If you're shooting a product, say a lovely new gadget or a delicious sandwich (like a cheese and pickle sandwich, my favourite subject after buildings, ha), blurring the background ensures the product is the star of the photo.
Detail Shots: Want to highlight a specific detail on a building, a flower, or a piece of jewellery? A shallow depth of field draws the eye precisely to that point, eliminating busy surroundings.
To get that lovely blurry background, remember:
1. Use a wide aperture (small f-number).
2. Get closer to your subject. (More on this later!)
3. Ensure there's distance between your subject and the background. The further away the background, the blurrier it gets.
3: Sharp From Front to Back: The Landscape Dream
On the flip side, sometimes you want everything in your photo to be sharp. This is especially true for grand landscape shots, architectural exteriors, or large group photos where every face matters.
Landscapes: Imagine a vibrant flower in the foreground, a winding path in the mid-ground, and majestic mountains behind. To capture all of that in sharp detail, you need a deep depth of field. This means choosing a narrow aperture like f/8, f/11, or even f/16. You want everything from your very nearest point of interest to the furthest distant horizon to be crisp and clear.
Group Photos: When photographing a family reunion or a big group of friends, you definitely want everyone's face in focus, not just the front row. A narrower aperture ensures everyone, front to back, is acceptably sharp.
Architectural Photography (My Bread and Butter!): For buildings, I almost always want every line, detail, and texture to be sharp, from the ground level to the highest point. I rely heavily on narrower apertures for this consistent sharpness.
When aiming for maximum sharpness throughout your scene, remember:
1. Use a narrow aperture (large f-number).
2. Focus carefully at the correct point – often about a third of the way into the scene (the hyperfocal distance, but let's not get too fancy today!).
3. Consider using a tripod for stability, especially with narrower apertures which let in less light, requiring longer shutter speeds. (My best friend, the tripod, as we discussed in Episode 210 and many other episodes!).
4: Beyond Aperture: Distance & Focal Length Secrets
While aperture is the main thing that we think of, it's not the only factor affecting depth of field. Two other crucial elements play a huge role, often without you even realising it.
Distance to Subject:
Closer You Are, Shallower DoF. This is a big one! If you take a photo of a flower from a foot away, the background will be much blurrier than if you take the same photo from 10 feet away, even if your aperture stays the same. So, for that lovely blurry background, don't just open your aperture wide, get closer to your subject!
Further You Are, Deeper DoF. Conversely, if you want everything sharp, getting further away from your subject (and the scene) will naturally increase the depth of field.
Focal Length of Your Lens:
Longer Lenses = Shallower DoF. A 200mm telephoto lens gives you much shallower depth of field (more background blur) at the same aperture and subject distance compared to a 24mm wide-angle lens. This is why telephoto lenses are popular for sports and wildlife photography – they isolate the subject beautifully.
Wider Lenses = Deeper DoF. Wide-angle lenses (like 17mm or 24mm) inherently have a deeper depth of field, making them great for landscapes where you want everything sharp.
Understanding these two factors means you have even more tools in your creative toolbox to control what's sharp and what's gloriously blurred.
And let’s not forget crop factors here – no, I have still not done that episode!
5: Pinpoint Focus: The Key to Effective DoF Control
(YouTube Video Title Idea: Master Your Focus: Make DoF Work!)
All this talk of blurry backgrounds and sharp landscapes means nothing if your actual subject isn't perfectly in focus! Mastering your camera's focusing system is absolutely crucial when playing with depth of field.
Accurate Autofocus (AF): Don't just point and shoot! Make sure your camera's autofocus point is directly on the most important part of your subject – for portraits, that's usually the eyes. If you're using shallow depth of field, even a tiny misfocus will be obvious.
Recomposing Caution: If you're after shallow depth of field, be careful if you focus on your subject and then move your camera to recompose. This can shift your focus plane slightly, making your subject less sharp. It's often better to select an autofocus point that aligns with your subject where you want it in the frame. (This is where back-button focus, which I use, can be a game-changer!).
Manual Focus (When Needed): For very precise work, especially in low light or with static subjects (like architectural details, or macro photography), manual focus can offer pinpoint accuracy. Although, as I've said before, my old eyes prefer to let my newer camera do the focusing! If you use manual focusing, let me know!
Remember, the goal is always to have the intended part of your image tack sharp, even if everything else is beautifully blurred or crystal clear.
So, there you have it – a comprehensive guide to creatively using depth of field. It's about taking command of that magical blur, or lack thereof! Practice, practice, practice!
Here is something for you to do.
Go out with your camera (or even your phone!) and experiment with aperture. Find a subject. Take photos at your lens's widest aperture (smallest f-number) for a super blurry background. Then take photos of the same subject at a much narrower aperture (larger f-number), like f/11 or f/16, for more of the scene in focus. Also, try getting really close to your subject, and then further away - see the difference for yourself. It's truly eye-opening. And then tell me how you get on!
What if I use a phone to take my photos?
Great question, Rick! Phone cameras, with their tiny sensors and wide-angle lenses, generally have much deeper depth of field by default. This makes it harder to get those super blurry backgrounds. However, most modern smartphones now have a "Portrait Mode" or "Aperture Mode" which uses software to simulate shallow depth of field. It works surprisingly well most of the time, although it can sometimes struggle with tricky edges. So, you can definitely still play with blurry backgrounds on your phone! As for landscapes, phones often excel at keeping everything sharp due to their inherent deep depth of field.
What do I do?
As a professional architectural and real estate photographer, depth of field is incredibly important to me. My work, which you can see at rickmcevoyphotography.com, almost always requires everything in the frame to be razor-sharp from front to back.
My approach boils down to meticulous control of DoF:
Narrow Aperture for Sharpness: I predominantly use narrower apertures, usually around f/8, f/11, or even f/16, to ensure every line and detail of the building is sharp, from the doorstep to the roofline. This is my 'depth of sharpness' sweet spot.
Tripod All The Way: Because narrower apertures mean less light, I almost always use a tripod. This allows me to use longer shutter speeds without any camera shake (my best friend!).
Precision Focusing: I manually select my focus point for every shot, ensuring critical sharpness on the most important architectural elements. My trusty back-button focus helps here!
When I DO Use Shallow DoF: Occasionally, if I'm highlighting a specific design feature or detail, I might use a wider aperture to selectively blur the surroundings and draw the eye precisely to that point. But this is the exception, not the rule, in my architectural work.
No Compromise on Quality: I use the lowest ISO (ISO 100 on my Canon 6D) to maintain maximum image quality and detail, complementing my depth of field choices.
This is what I do. It's the practical application of what I have told you in this episode, things that I have used to take countless shoots, ensuring every image I deliver is crystal clear, professional, and reflects my precise vision, whether it's all sharp or beautifully selective.
Final Takeaways and Summary for Creative Use of Depth of Field
Mastering depth of field is a cornerstone of creative photography. Remember:
Aperture is Key: Wide apertures (small f-numbers) create shallow depth of field (blurry backgrounds). Narrow apertures (large f-numbers) create deep depth of field (everything sharp).
Distance Matters: Getting closer to your subject makes DoF shallower.
Focal Length Plays a Role: Longer lenses naturally give shallower DoF.
Focus is Crucial: Ensure your intended subject is perfectly sharp, especially with shallow depth of field.
Experiment: Try different settings to see the dramatic visual impact you can achieve.
Practice makes perfect, transforming your photography technique to deliver professional results and capture your vision every time.
Some thoughts from the last episode
Mastering camera modes is a journey, not a destination. Keep experimenting with Auto, P, Av, Tv, and M. The more you use them, the more intuitive they become. I hope you're trying out manual mode, or at least your favourite priority mode!
Next Episode
Next week: Episode 213: Your First Five Steps into Landscape Photography (Even in Your Local Park!). We'll explore how to get started capturing stunning landscapes, even if you're just starting in your local park! Subscribe so you don't miss it!
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This episode was brought to you by a cheese and pickle sandwich, yes, really, and some water, which is a shock, I know, which I consumed before settling in my homemade, acoustically cushioned recording emporium.
I've been Rick McEvoy. Thanks again for listening to my small but perfectly formed podcast and for giving me 27 minutes of your valuable time. I reckon this episode will be about 25 minutes long after editing out the mistakes and bad stuff.
Thanks for listening
Take care and stay safe.
Cheers from me, Rick